To understand how rust prevention coatings work, first we need to talk a
little bit about rust. Rust is a chemical process in which the
iron atoms combine with oxygen atoms to form iron oxide, otherwise known
as rust. In a little more detail it is an electrochemical reaction. The
iron (or steel) is in an electrolyte (water) and a tiny battery is
formed whereby elctrons flow from the iron to the water molecules.
As a result, the iron goes from an iron atom to being a ion, which is an
atom which has lost one or two electrons. At the same time the
water is changed into hydroxly ion (OH one
oxygen and one hyrdrogen atom) which gains an electron and it also needs
an extra Oxygen atom. The
Iron ion then seeks out the hydroxyl ion, they come to gether and form
a hydrated iron oxide compound. When this dries out, it becomes the
red crumbly ferric oxide (rust) we are so familiar with. It does not need much water at all for
this to happen, it can be a drop, a film of water, even just atmospheric
humidity or it can be full immersion. In the real world it is a
bit more complicated, but not much.
Next we need to understand
what is possible and what is sensible. All iron (steel) will
eventually return to the rust condition (which is what iron ore is).
Rust control is all about delaying this happening. The better
treatments can delay it for a long time, hundreds of years and more.
Just about any treatment will provide a bit of a delay. How
quickly it happens is controlled by how aggressive the conditions it is
exposed to are and how effective the control solution is.
To
control rust, it is
necessary to intervene in one of more steps in the electrochemical pathway
from happening.
There are many different ways to control rust, some more successful than others and as a result there is
any amount of snake oil claiming to be "Grandpa's Patented Rust Remedy"
many of which have little evidence as to their longevity or efficacy. As
a general guide, anything which does not explain how it works, probably
doesn't work all that well. The field is also full of potions and
brews, some from large and respectable paint companies, which by using a
brand name imply that the product will kill rust or do other wonderful
things. Any coating will restrict rust a bit, but only properly
formulated coatings with ingredients scientifically validated to be
effective against rust are likely to give significantly extended life and a superior
anti-rust experience.
Sacrificial Coatings The idea here is to understand
that rust is a little bit like a battery. There is a cathode which
supplies elctrons and there is an anode which absorbs electrons from the
metal (which convertes the metal atom to an ion and the ion then leaves
the parent metal). If a metal which is more strongly willing to
give up elctrons is connected electrically to the parent metal, it will
supply the electrons and loose atoms as ions instead. This is the
principle behind galvanishing and sacrifical anodes. The
sacrificial metal is typically zinc ( but can be aluminium and often is
a combination of zinc and aluminium). Hence Zincalume.
Galvanising can be very effective. It involves dipping the whole
steel structure into a bath of molten zinc. Zincalume coated steel
sheets also have an excellent life. Zinc plating immerses the work
in a plating bath (usually strongly acid) and passes an electrical
current through it.
Sacrificial coatings
and anodes are very effective, how-ever they do have a limited life.
Eventually they will be fully consumed and then the parent metal will
start to corrode instead. There are many items which cannot have
these treatments either due to size, or their inability to withstand the
mechanical or corrosive cleaning processes, or the heat of the molten
zinc or the acidic plating environment. Bolt on anodes require
permanent immersion (boats) to be effective.
Physical Barrier Coatings The idea with physical barriers is to prevent
water or oxygen getting to the parent iron or steel. If one or the
other (or both) can be excluded, then the standard rust reaction will
not occur. Some simple things can give quite good short term
protection such as coating the part in grease or oil. This will
exclude both moisture and oxygen. There are some extremely
effective but also expensive and complicated solutions used by
engineers, such as on the Goodwill Bridge in Brisbane, where the insides
of the hollow steel members are completely sealed up and filled with dry
nitrogen which thus excludes moisture and oxygen from the steel.
Most coating systems fall into this category. A rust control
coating to be effective must do a number of things. Firstly, it
must be a good barrier to moisture and oxygen. Secodly it must
adhere well to the metal being protected. Thirdly it must continue
to adhere well and be a good barrier for the required length of time.
Fourthly it must be able to withstand the bumps, knocks and scrapes that
will occur during its life without the barrier being breached and
permitting oxygen and water to reach the protected material.
Finally, the coating system should not be seriously toxic, either for
the applicator or subsequent perons who come into contact with it and it
should not generate intractable waste disposal problems.
All
coatings will provide some protection, but in some cases (e.g. water
based acrylics) it is very very limited indeed.
Two pack epoxy is
probably the coating system which best meets all these needs.
Modern ships are often protected by barrier coatings of two pack
epoxies. Two pack epoxy is probably the best barrier of all
coating polymers available and it has acceptable safety and
enivironmental values. It has no inherent degradation mechanism so
it has an excellent potential life. It has a couple of
limitations. The first is that the steel surface to be protected
has to be blast cleaned to a very high degree to ensure that great
adhesion longetivity is obtained. The second is that all epoxies
are damaged by the ultra violet in sunlight, and it has to be overcoated
with other paints which absorb the UV rays.
The classic
protection method for steel structures were red lead based primers
followed by MIO alkyd undercoats and top coats. This often
protected the structure for as much as 50 years, and many steel bridges
are still protected by it. The red lead primer is now outlawed and
unavailable. To be really effective, the structure needed to be
abrasive basted to a high degree of cleanliness prior to applying the
primer to ensure the lead could come into contact with the steel and
provide an inhibiting effect.
Amongst the single pack coatings,
most are OK as barriers. Some of the older ones whilst giving
quite good barrier performance have high VOC's ( volatile organic
compounds) so they are no longer widely used. Some of the newer
ones include single pack epoxies. The professional
opinion for instance about single pack epoxy coatings is that they are
not very strong and to become effective, they would need a high
temperature bake cure. Thus it might be suggested that single pack
epoxies are trading on the epoxy name to sound good, possibly without
providing great performance. Most require strenuous cleaning
of the metal surface to a bright (calss 2.5) surface.
One single
pack coating which does offer great barrier performance is a certain vinyl
acrylic co-polymer. This has been tested and found to have a very
satisfactorily low permeability. It has great adhesion to a wide
variety of surfaces. This resin also exhibits a great balance between
hardness and flexibility which results in a very tough coating.
This in turn means that it will be very resistant to most mechanical
damage which could lead to a protection failure. It is water
based, non toxic, has minimal irritation issues and its use leads
to minimal environmental concerns. This is the base resin which we
use in our Feronite Rusty Metal Primer.
Chemical Inhibitors,
Conversion Coatings Inhibitors are chemical substances which
react with the metal surfaces so as to prevent the rust reaction
continuing. There are both anodic and cathodic inhibitors.
With an anodic inhibitor, the inhibitor ion reacts with the metallic
ions (Fe+++) formed on the anode surface to form an insoluble
hydroxide which is deposited on the metal surface and forms an
impermable film. This alters the electrochemistry and effectively
passivates the metal in this region. Phosphates are one such
anodic inhibitor. Cathodic inhibitors behave similarly at the
cathodic area forming a barrier of insoluble precipitates over the
cathodic area. This insulates the cathodic area. Zinc for
example reacts with the OH- ions to form insoluble Zn(OH)2 zinc
hydroxide. Tanins also behave as cathodic inhibitors.
Many
coatings (including our Feronite Rusty Metal primer) incorporate ZnPO4
(zinc phosphate) so that if the barrier of the coating is broken through
a scratch or bump, the corrosion inhibitor will provide some protection
in the damaged area.
Electrical protection
Another approach is to use a
small electrical current to reverse the flow of electrons, in effect to
over power the tiny battery that is resulting in the steel dissolving.
This solution is most frequently applied on underground pipelines and
the reinforcing steel inside the concrete on large buildings. It
requires that a sacrificial or neutral electrode is located near to the
asset being protected and a small voltage (a few volts) with -ve to the
item being protected is applied. Close monitoring is required to
enure that all parts of the structure are being properly protected.
Occasionally, a product appears on the amrket which is said to do the
same thing with a car. As there is no way to connect a second
electrode and have a current flow between them, there appears to be no
scientific basis for these pieces of equipment.
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